Philly Fare (June) by Celeste McCall
June 2008 vol 7 #6
South Philly–Ever Changing
[Editor note: In-between Laura Koster’s Philly Fare, Foodservice Monthly’s columnists will be taking trips to explore the culinary scene of our newest “regional addition.” This month Celeste McCall, our Entrée News maven and world traveler, takes a peek into what Philly is eating and drinking.]
South Philadelphia is hardly the oldest neighborhood in the City of Brotherly Love. But this vibrant section–the Italian district– offers fascinating history and cuisine. Moreover, the area is ever changing and continues to attract restaurants and other food businesses.
Situated outside William Penn’s 17th-century planned city, South Philadelphia was founded for “new” immigrants, mainly Italians, who started arriving around 1884, almost 200 years after Philadelphia’s birth. Many newcomers headed for Antonio Palumbo’s boarding house. Shops – mainly grocery stores – soon sprang up nearby along Ninth Street, where family-owned businesses remain today.
In recent years, an influx of Latino and Vietnamese has enriched the cultural and culinary scene as Hispanic bodegas and Vietnamese noodle shops are cropping up. Moreover, South Philly is expanding. At least two long-time food businesses -- Di Bruno Brothers House of Cheese and Termini Brothers Bakery – are opening spin-offs in Philadelphia’s Comcast Center, the 57-floor skyscraper which debuted June 8 in Center City.
South Philadelphia’s main drag remains Ninth Street. Featured in the movie “Rocky,” the string of outdoor markets –equipped with awnings to protect customers from the elements – hawk produce, meats, fish and house wares year around. And there are gourmet shops galore.
Here are just a few:
Cannuli Brothers Quality Meats & Poultry, 937 S. Ninth Street. We learned about this store from local author Celeste Morello, who was selling her cookbooks nearby. She directed us to Cannuli’s kitchen, where chefs were roasting 30 whole pigs (pork is Cannuli’s specialty) for a Super Bowl party. We could small the mouth-watering aroma a block away. Co-owner Charlie Cannuli gave us a taste. Crispy skin enveloped the succulent meat, similar to Tuscan porchetta. Since the Cannuli family comes from Eastern Sicily, their version was liberally spiced with black pepper, red pepper, garlic and rosemary.
Claudio Specialty Foods, 924-26 S. Ninth Street. This amazing store
carries umpteen kinds of cheese, sausages, pastas, olives, olive oil, vinegar, and other Mediterranean specialty items. The shop remained the Claudio family for more than 50 years. The place is a feast for all the senses, as salamis and balls of mozzarella dangle over the bountiful deli counter. Samples are often dispensed.
Di Bruno Brothers House of Cheese, 930 S. Ninth Street, with a spin-off at 1730 Chestnut (Rittenhouse) Square, and soon to arrive at Comcast Center. Family-owned for a half century, Di Bruno offers at least 400 kinds of cheeses, oils, vinegars, breads, pastas, homemade cheese spreads, and gourmet kitchenware.
Termini Brothers Bakery, 1523 S. Eighth Street, with spin-offs including one in the Reading Terminal Market and soon-to-open in the Comcast Center. Using state-of-the-art ovens as well as equipment dating back to the 1920s and 100-year-old recipes, Termini is famous for European-style cookies, pastries, candies and other confections. The store ships tins of cookies and other goodies all over the world.
South Philadelphia’s dining scene ranges from hole-in-the-wall eateries, to dressy, even glitzy destination restaurants. Following is a partial–by no means comprehensive–roundup.
Café Diem, 1031 S. Eighth Street. We discovered this homey rice and noodle shop years ago during a January snowstorm. The simple, authentic menu offers spicy noodle soups (bun bo Hue–Hue-style beef is a big seller), as well as traditional “broken rice” and lots of pork dishes.
Café Nhu Y, 802 Christian Street. Vietnamese hoagies? Why not? This spartan sandwich shop offers the best of both worlds: Philly hoagies (subs) seasoned with South Asian flair. Choices include shredded pork hoagies, as well as chicken, and veggie versions.
El Vez, 121 S. 13th Street. A member of the Starr Restaurant Group, This “modern Mexican” eatery presents an array of dishes in colorful (some say kitschy) ambience, complete with el dia de la muerte (day of the dead) motifs and a genuine, low-rider bike). Guacamole is more than a cliché, and folks love the tacos, beef gorditas, short ribs and tangy margaritas. Portions are overly bountiful; some are large enough for sharing.
Pat’s King of Steaks, Ninth and Passyunk and Geno’s Steaks, 1219 S. Ninth Street. Considered rivals for Philly’s “best” cheese steaks, these standbys are hunkered side-by-side in the heart of South Philly. Dating from the 1930s, cheese steaks are an original Philly concoction of thinly sliced meat (usually beef) piled on a soft roll and topped with sizzling onions and gobs of bright orange Cheez Whiz. Just watching the process should elevate one’s cholesterol. But folks love ‘em!
Ralph’s Italian Restaurant, 760 S. Ninth Street. This landmark is operated by the third generation of the Dispigno family, who arrived at Ellis Island from Naples in 1893, and eventually winding their way to Philadelphia. Some say the more than 100-year-old Ralph’s is the nation’s oldest Italian restaurant. Celebrity guests including Teddy Roosevelt, Frank Sinatra, Jimmy Durante, Lena Horn and Tony Bennett have been charmed by the retro menu of antipasto, roasted peppers with fresh mozzarella, spaghetti with various sauces; fettuccine Alfredo, gnocchi, eggplant parmesan, sweetbreads and veal creations.
Ristorante Pesto, 1915 South Broad Street. Not surprisingly, pesto rules the kitchen. To start, a server presents a complimentary plate of pesto potato salad and carrots in balsamic sauce, almost enough for a light meal. The luncheon menu offers an assortment of salads (insalata di tonno is a slab of fresh tuna nestled on a bed of field greens, tomatoes topped with shaved Parmigiano cheese); paninis (pollo Genovese–grilled chicken breast with red peppers and pesto); as well as heartier options like gnocchi al pesto, farfalle boscaiola (bowie pasta with ham and mushrooms). Operated by Giovanni Varallo and Claudio Conigliaro, Pesto has a sister restaurant –Io e Tu, at 1514-20 S. Ninth Street.
Sabrina’s Café, 910 Christian Street. This cozy neighborhood spot is always packed, especially for all-day brunch when customers choose from an extensive menu of burgers and sandwiches, egg dishes (including the gigantic Bella Vista omelette), challah French toast, “Ninth Street” Italian antipasto piled with roasted tomatoes and peppers, grilled eggplant, a scattering of olives, cheeses and prosciutto. Portions are huge!
Tre Scalini, 1533 S. 11th Street. This cozy charmer is tucked into a South Philly row house. Among recommended menu items are bouillabaisse, a host of shellfish swimming in a light, savory tomato broth. Veal chops are generous and juicy, and dainty quail are lightly dusted with rosemary and sage. Regulars swear by the tiramisu.
Victor Café, 1303 Dickenson Street. Operated by John DiStephano, Victor is a hangout for local thespians. In fact, our actor neighbor in Washington recommended it. Unfortunately, it was shuttered when we visited (it’s open nightly). Best known for its singing waiters and a scene in “Rocky,” Victor has been around since 1918. The straightforward menu encompasses the usual meat, fish and chicken dishes. But pastas–like goat-cheese ravioli and spinach fettuccine in champagne cream sauce– dominate the menu. Dessert: traditional cannoli.
Celeste McCall is a Washington D.C. food and travel writer. She can be reached at 202-547-5024.
