FOODSERVICE MONTHLY'S Sauce on the Side

The Pig Pageant

Today began with another trip to Sandy Lerner's Ayrshire Farm for a special heritage tasting and yes it was "The Pig Pageant." Lerner raises among other animals the Glocestershire Old Spot pigs -- which are listed as in the critical zone of rare and endangered breeds of livestock. We tasted the Guinea Hog, the Ossabaw Island, Red Wattle, Tamworth (my personal second favorite), Gloucestershire Old Spot (raised by our host and it came in second overall), the Hereford, the Large Black and the Mulefoot (my favortie and the group favorite). The event was co-sponsored by The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, Humane Farm Animal Care, Slow Food USA and Ayrshire Farm. Attendees at the invitation only event included farmers, customers of Ayrshire, chefs, restaurateurs Slow Food folks and the press. Lerner has hosted tastings so far for turkey, beef, lamb and now pigs. Next on the list are chickens and then the cycle starts again.

Each producer brought a Boston butt and it was slow cooked overnight without seasoning or extra treatment. The tasters (perhaps 80 or so) sampled each blind ... with numbered picks. A ringer was thrown in ... purchased at the grocery that finished as a sixth place favorite of the 9.

Thanks to Sandy Lerner and her staff for conceiving of this great tasting opportunity and to all the producers who provided the porkers ... gratis. I can't think of anywhere else you could have this side-by-side experience.

   

While checking the name of the person with John Guattery, corporate chef for Clyde's Restaurant Group, for my photo ID, I found that Arie McFarlen is the owner of the winning Mulefoot and Maveric Ranch in South Dakota. I learned about a devasting fire she had at the ranch a couple of months ago that you can read about here. Arie also has a blog that gives wonderful insight into the human spirit ... you have to take a look.

I also met Daniel Giusti from 1789 and Brian Stickel from Clyde's Georgetown. I talked for a few moments to Tarver King, chef for Hilltoppers at Goodstone Inn and Steve who just joined Tarver's team at the Inn. Jeff and Barbara Black brought a team members from their Black Restaurant Group to the tasting.

FOTO 1: Don Schrider and Sandy Lerner

FOTO 2: John Guattery and Arie McFarlen

FOTO 3: Daniel Giusti and Brian Stickel

FOTO 4: Tarver King and Steve

Western Tech Holds Assessment Day for 8th Graders

Gosh, the times have changed. Kids in the 8th grade have to prove themselves to even get considered to enter the culinary program at schools these days. On Saturday I participated in the process at the request of chef/instructor Lisa Christhilf at Western School of Technology in Baltimore. I was there with chefs like Gerhard Kowalski, John Johnson and Ken Jarvis from Anne Arundel Community College, Curtis Eargle from Maryland Club and Paul Bartlett. The kids had an hour to take a biscuit menu ... scale it down to make five to test their math ability ... and then do it. For all it was the first time using a scale to measure ingredients in baking and they were judged by us on everything ... including whether we could eat the biscuits. All the kids cared -- no slackers and I didn't have any problem eating the biscuits -- one had a little too much salt. Unfortunately a high score today is not a guarantee to get in ... the demand is so high that Christhilf said it would still turn into a lottery for the final determination.

She had a team of freshmen and sophomores who kept the chefs and kids in line and made sure stations were cleaned by the eight graders before they left. They helped to keep things moving along and thanks to their diligence and good practices, no one got burned using the ovens.

I hope all the kids get in ... especially the ones I rated highly.

FOTO: Lisa Christhilf (3rd from left) and culinary students at Western School of Technology.

Economy Proof Now Offered Nightly

You can't wait until the last minute to finally see the writing on the wall ... that's what I learned from the folks at Big Steaks Management who run four Ruth's Chris Steak Houses in Baltimore and Annapolis. In November 2007, the Steve de Castro owned restaurants responded to what their customers tell them is important ... good value without sacrificing quality. Hence the creation then (and refinements along the way) of the Economy Proof menu. When it was first introduced it was available on certain nights of the week or during specific time periods, now it a nightly feature. For $35.95, guests can order a choice of soup or salad, the entree from a select list, and a accompaniment. As you can see from the picture ... the portions are the same, the sides looked great.

For my chef/restaurateur readers, I will feature an exclusive interview with the COO of Big Steaks Management David Sadeghi in the March Foodservice Monthly. David gives an candid accounting of what it's like to operate a restaurant in today's economy ... and for the most successful, they laid the foundation some time ago in the way they communicate with their employees. 

From tonight through February 1, the city of Balitmore is celebrating with their own Restaurant Week and Ruth's Chris mixes up the three-courses to include a dessert and the price is $30.09 ... check it out.

As always, it's easier to read the menu or see the detail of the foto by clicking on the image ... it helps the eyes.

The Times They Are A Changin' ...

I watched the celebration of the Inauguration of Barack Obama with wonder, pride and any number of other words a better writer than this one could write across the page.

But, it is the secondary swirl of commercial exploitation of the events surrounding the Inauguration that amused me as I reflected on my career in food and beverage. I go back to 1986 when I was a food and beverage director in a four-star Hilton in Akron, Ohio. In my restaurant I was looking for a way to promote wine and food together. One idea came to me after a wine sales person told me that Schramsberg 1979 Cremant Demi-sec had been served at President Ronald Reagan's 75th birthday in The White House. I had also heard that President Reagan had been adding and using more wines from California to The White House wine cellar. I wanted to create a dinner using wines being served at The White House.

Well, I knew one of the wines ... the Schramsberg. But what were the others that the President favored and served. I decided to go to the source and I crafted a letter to The White House kitchen. The letter you see here is what I got ... from Gary Walters, the Chief Usher. I learned later he had come to The White House as a secret service agent and then to the Usher office before he became the chief usher in 1986. He retired from The White House at the end of 2006.

I have seen bottles of expensive Scotch etched with Obama words, bottles of water in the 7/11 with screened images of the President on the plastic bottle, buttons, wines, cocktails, dinners ... just about everything that walks and talks (and babies, too) have seen the Presidential Obama image and name. All I wanted to do was to have a Presidential wine dinner reenactment in my dining room for what I thought in 1986 would be a clever promotion.

Wrong.

As you can see my request befuddled and disturbed the tranquility of the Usher's office. Oh, the commercial shame of possibly exploiting the office of the President for profit.

All I got out of it was most likely another note in my FBI file squirrled away in a musty file from the 60s.

I think I'll go have another sip of the Obama Johnny Walker Blue.

[click on the letter if you want to see a clearer image in a separate window]

Taste of Maryland 2009, Loews Annapolis Hotel

There was life outside the Beltway on Monday night. When the world appeared to revolve around the excitement of DC, legislators of the Maryland legislature gathered at the Loews Annapolis for their annual welcoming reception hosted by the Restaurant Association of Maryland, Maryland Tourism Council and the Maryland Hotel and Lodging Association. Melvin Thompson, senior vice president for RAM coordinates the legislative attendees and the restaurants and wineries of Maryland donate the food and wine. Fiji made the water plentiful and MillerCoors supported the brewski supply.

Paul Hartgen, president and CEO of RAM and Jim Breuer, chairman of the board for RAM, as you can see in the first photo were gracious hosts for the evening. GO to the online FOTO Album to see some of the restaurants who donated product, time and service to make the event another rowsing success.

Lebanese Taverna served an addictively satisfying sliced lamb with hummus and pita ... Susan Gordon, Sandra Mondueri and Pamela Chilet served the guests.

 

Kevin and Harvey Blonder of Buddy's Crabs and Ribs are always ready to serve the Association ... on this night Kevin and Harvey Blonder were serving mini-stuffed shrimp.

Charcuterie: Sausages/Pates/Accompaniments

Now that we are officially on the other side of the inauguration, I guess we can talk about something else and I know I have a lot to add to the information clutter of blogosphere ... so I'm going to do two-a-days for the next few days to get caught up.

Today's mail brought me the advance copy of master chef Fritz Sonnenschmidt's Charcuterie: Sausages/Pates/Accompaniments. It's a wonderful text for a kitchen library, a culinary school's classroom ... or for a serious home cook (I like to think that's where I fit). It's not cheap at $62 but there's 350 plus pages of solid information you can't find anywhere else.

I met Fritz two years ago when he did a tour of culinary programs in Washington and Virginia as part of a traveling crew of retired master chefs from the Culinary Insititute of America where he taught from 1968-2002. In the foto, he is seen visiting Ballou High School's ProStart students in the culinary classroom. He took time out for a picture with Frans Hagen, the emeritus director of the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington Education Foundation.

The book is especially timely when you see chefs going back to basics in kitchens. The Washingtonian's Kate Nerenberg reported in December Jamie Stachowski is selling his charcuterie items via mail as "Stachowski Brand Charcuterie" ... you can reach him by e-mailing stachowski@gmail.com or calling 202-413-7355. I've seen his home setup for sausage making that goes back to his upstate New York childhood upbringing. Then recently I read with interest fellow writer April Fulton's journey into the world of pate on her blog The Food Scribe: Quenching a Passion for Pate. Then I saw today the sausage hanging in the Louisiana chef Donald Link's office in the NYT. And in these parts it's hard to talk about sausage without looking at Stan Feder's Simply Sausage (delish!)

Throughout his book, Sonnenschmidt gives out little factoids like: "Boudin (blood sausage) is a colloquial reference to the gear (a rolled up small red-blue tent) that used to top the backpack of French Legionnaires."

I think I'm going to start with one of his bratwurst recipes ... Linguica Portuguese Sausage.

For more information on Charcuterie: Sausages/Pates/Accompaniments, visit: Delmar Cengage Learning.

Add Equinox to the Obama List

Who is going to be the first Blogger to start the Obama Ate Here list? (it won't be me) ... are the restaurants going to have custom pins? ... yes, the excitement continues.

Ellen Gray posted a simple note on her Facebook page this morning about Barack and Michelle eating at Equinox last night and how honored they were. To me that's so cool. I remember how proud I was when Bill Clinton the candidate came to the last restaurant I managed in 1992. You don't fully understand the concepts of power and charisma until you are swept away by it.

One of the responses to Ellen's post was "so that's why they wouldn't let us in... figured something was up when we saw no less than 8 dark SUV's outside and police cars at each end of the block." Welcome also to the entourage/hoopla that comes with Presidential celebrity dining.

I wouldn't be surprised some Sunday morning to find the President not on Meet the Press but Dishing It Out with David and Nycci Nellis.

That's Todd and the Equinox family accepting his RAMMY last June for Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year.

Da Mimmo Celebrates 25 Years in Business

I traveled to Baltimore this morning to join in the celebration of good news ... and one doesn't turn down that opportunity these days. Mary Ann Cricchio's Da Mimmo Finest Italian Cuisine celebrates today the anniversary of 25 Years in business. Mary Ann wore the original dress she wore on opening day, January 11, 1984. Festivities in chilly (no, let's call it cold and windy) Little Italy began with a ribbon cutting ceremony at 11:30 a.m. 

Mary Ann was joined by Dr. Francesco Legaluppi, Consul of Italy in Baltimore, 17-year-old son Mimmo Cricchio Jr., chef Masood Masoodi, general manager Shahla Langston, a representative of Mayor Sheila Dixon's office and Governor Martin O'Malley. People (other writers, pr folks and my wife) occasionally comment on my casual dress, so I did wear dress slacks, a nice shirt and sweater for the event ... so I felt over dressed next the governor in his jeans and jacket. I'm going to stop guessing what to wear ... and stick with well ... wait, why am I talking about clothes.

Today features the exact menu and prices for food from the 1984 menu. The menu will be served all day beginning at noon (there is still time). 

In addition the following promotions will take place in honor of the 25th Anniversary. Reservations may be made by calling 410-727-6876:

•         January 12 to January 16th – a featured 3-course meal for $25.00
•         January 18th – 25 percent of the proceeds from Sunday Dinner will be donated to the Associated Italian American Charities.
•         January 21st – “Veal Chop” night – their Signature Dish will only be $25 that evening.  Regularly priced at $45.

Kudos to the solo accordion player who somehow kept the fingers nimble enough to keep tunes flowing up and down South High St.

Michael Mina Took Charge of Breakfast Today at My House

You know it's just one of those writer perks ... go to a media dinner at Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak in the Four Seasons and get sent home with a goodie bag that includes a small bowl, a whisk, a Mina-crafted mix for "Bourbon Steak Pancakes" and a recipe. To top it all off, he included a bottle of BLiS bourbon barrel matured maple syrup. As you can see, I added some blueberries and had myself his self-proclaimed "light and fluffy" pancakes.

Dinner turned out to be a worthy adventure with tastes of 22 or so menu items ... delicious bites that had you wanting more ... some personal favorites were the Hamachi Sashimi, American Wagyu Tartare (craving it again right now), pressed foie gras (intense without being too much), red wine-braised oxtail, Duroc pork loin and a coconut candy bar that delivered more than Peter Paul Mounds ever could.  

Mark Politzer (remember his steady leadership at CityZen) has the front of the house under control ... I liked the way things flowed around the tables without any signs of pretention. The room and the food show potential for something special and I know I want to come back soon for the full experience. Kudos to sommelier Brick Loomis who is just getting settled into his new DC environs (got to get him ou t to Virginia wine country): he served the Qupe Syrah Cuvee Michael Mina and the Vita Nova Santa Barbara County at a perfect temperature for a red ... slightly cool that allowed all their fresh qualities to show.

And thanks again Michael for breakfast ... the syrup is special!

Lincoln and Esposo Unveil Palette's "Official Inaugural Menu"

A cold drizzly rain couldn't keep President Lincoln from his appointment to show off the Lincoln Bedroom at the Loews Madison Hotel in DC. The folks from Madame Tussauds DC Wax Museum wrapped him up and wheeled him over for a day in his chair in the commemorative room celebrating his bicentennial and the Obama inauguration. I was there for a preview of menu items for Palette presented by chef Arnel Esposo for the month long events. I must admit I enjoyed the room tour before the eats: the waxy replica of the former president was impressive and the room was tastefully appointed ... a sleepover in Abe's room would be quite nice. 

Back to the food: Esposo has created a menu to highlight past Inaugural luncheons served in Statuary Hall. Diners will be presented with a choice of an appetizer, entree and dessert served from Presidents including Dwight D. Eisenhower, 1957 (Maine Lobster Newburg); John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 1961 (cream of tomato soup with crushed popcorn); Richard Milhous Nixon, 1973 (shrimp cocktail); and Lyndon Baines Johnson, 1965 (Texas heart of filet mignon with bercy sauce).

I almost forgot: Guests that book the package get a keepsake set of towels personalized with “I slept in The Lincoln Bedroom” with the Loews Madison hotel logo, but please leave the napkins in the dining room.