FOODSERVICE MONTHLY'S Sauce on the Side

Joan Hisaoka - Make A Difference 2008

The First Annual Joan Hisaoka “Make A Difference” Gala benefiting the Smith Farm Center for Healing and the Arts was held last night at The Ritz-Carlton, Washington, DC. In an evening that demonstrated some of the healing that has taken place since Joan's passing May 14 from cancer, the emphasis was on raising money in her honor. The evening's mission of Making a Difference for Smith Farm Center added a joy and spiritual element to her ongoing memory that lives within us.

The Smith Farm Center is a  Washington, DC based (16th and U St. NW) non-profit health, education and creative arts organization that serves individuals, families and communities affected by cancer and other serious illnesses. Joan developed a relationship with the center as she worked through her days with cancer. Since its founding in 1996, Smith Farm programs have positively transformed the experience of living with cancer – for adults, their caregivers and the healthcare professionals who care for them.  Smith Farm Center retreats and programs foster internal healing, stimulate creative and spiritual resources, enhance living and complement mainstream medical care. The Smith Farm Center will use the funds raised from the gala to expand the facilities, and broaden their care of individuals living with cancer, their families and adult caregivers. Visit the Smith Farm Center Web site.

Robert Hisaoka, Joan's brother, along with his wife Paula and Joan's husband Marvin Rosskopf worked tirelessly since her death to make the evening a reality. Todd and Ellen Gray planned the menu and Annie Boutin-King and The Ritz-Carlton executed the meal and the service. It was a wonderful tribute with a beautiful result. As soon as I have the numbers from Robert, I will post the "giving" numbers.

fotos: There were many of the leading women of foodservice on hand.

Ris Lacoste and Heather Chittum helped the event auction team raise the bidding for the chef items.

November Foodservice Monthly

The November issue of Foodservice Monthly is ready to go to press next week ... so let's take a moment to preview the upcoming issue. As you can see from the cover, I visited Roosevelt High School when executive chefs from the New England Culinary Insititute came down from Vermont to spend two days with culinary students in the DC and Fairfax County school systems. On this day, the chefs were working with new students from Roosevelt, Hospitality Charter School and Ballou High Schools at the Roosevelt Academy for Hospitality and Culinary Arts in the District. On the cover, NECI culinary instructor Mark Molinaro is teaching students the art of risotto cookery. Food shows on television may excite, but at some point these professional have to step in so students can learn their craft.

Frans Hagen of the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington Education Foundation made this all happen.

Want to get a jump start on the latest news on the culinary scene in DC and Va. ... I've already posted Linda Roth Conte's The Latest Dish ... you'll get the early scoop.

Dante Revisited

 When I came to Virginia almost 15 years ago, I began a second career. I had left Ohio and my food and beverage career, most of it in hotels behind. It was time for a change in my life and I had decided that while the rigors of the day to day operations of running a restaurant or a hotel food and beverage department were over, I could finally use my English degree -- to write about what I know ... restaurants and how they run. My first writing experience came writing food features for the Times Community Newspapers -- covering Fairfax and Loudoun counties. Soon I was writing reviews. I reviewed Dante Ristorante in Great Falls twice with the last one printed in June 1999. It is still on their Web site.

Last week a DC publicist invited media to visit the "community" restaurant -- most I'm sure had never been to the quaint home of owners Elio Domestici and chef Giuseppe DiBenigno (open since 1989). So I make this full disclosure ... unlike my first "review" meals, this meal was gratis for my wife and I as a media type. Secondly, this is not a review. Initially I had no plans for any immediate story, figuring instead I would gather information and insight for a future story on neighborhood dining. But, I was so struck by the genuine nature of the hospitality and food that I knew I had to write a few words before the night was over.

My wife raved about the mussels with the hot peppers and tomato sauce. I could not have been more pleased with the carpaccio on arugula and served with shaved Parmesan and olive oil. My wife had a Dover sole that had her expressing another round of praise for its preparation, the deboning by the server and the taste. I had the Osso Buco with veal shank served with soft polenta ... as rich and tender as you would ever expect. Now I did not remember what I ate nine years ago ... I couldn't even remember what I had written, but I did know that the overall impression was favorable. When I got home I was curious about my 1999 review. I couldn't find my original so I read the one Dante kept. I had to laugh. I had eaten exactly the same meal. And my impressions of everything I had were the same tonight as they were then ... down to the perfectly made espresso. I had just been interviewed the day before for another writer's story ... and I waxed on about how restaurants have to change to be successful and how they have to be aware of the world around them to be relevant. I did so in a tone of absolutes and authority. I was wrong for not leaving myself significant wiggle room.

Dante is one of those restaurants that you would want in your neighborhood. It's not important that it is not in any writer's top 10, 50 or 100. What is important is that Dante does a fine job night after night ... meal after meal. Thanks Elio and Giuseppe for not changing.

I hope to be back sooner rather than later although I now live in Maryland. It is good to know that when I do return, the carpaccio and osso buco will be just as good as I remember.

Morton's Is One ... In Annapolis That Is

On an evening of many birthdays, the Annapolis Morton's The Steakhouse celebrated its first on Tuesday night while the restaurant group founded by Arnie Morton and  Klaus Fritsch (he attended the festivities) is celebrating its 30th and the city of Annapolis is turning 300. Mayor Ellen Moyer was on hand to declare it Morton's Day in the city for its commitment to excellence and community. Guests who came to the party paid $100 per person, with proceeds benefiting the Boys & Girls Clubs of Annapolis & Anne Arundel County.

Morton's CEO Thomas Baldwin welcomed the guests and Reginald Broddie, executive director of the Boys & Girls Clubs of Annapolis & Anne Arundel County spoke along with the mayor.

For the toast we had Broddie, Roger Drake, Mayor Moyer, Annapolis GM Chad Lipson and Baldwin.

I didn't know many in the Annapolis dining room, so it was nice to see Paul Saval and Rick Hatcher of Saval Foodservice who introduced me to several of the Morton's execs on hand. Then I saw Ned Mirkovic, most recently manager at the Bethesda location and RAMMY finalist for manager of the year, who has taken on new duties with the chain of 80 plus steakhouses (more on that in the days ahead).

For the toast and the celebration, Morton's created an Annapolis specific cocktail: the Annapolitan.

Annapolitan Recipe:

2 ounces of Sparkling Wine
1 ounce Limoncello
1 ounce Absolute Citron
1/2 ounce Raspberry Puree
Raspberry for garnish

Lightly shake the sparkling wine, Limoncello and Absolute Citron. Pour into glass with Raspberry Puree. Garnish with a raspberry.

Morton’s The Steakhouse is located at 100 Westgate Circle in the Westin Annapolis at Park Place.

Share Our Strength's 'Hunger is Senseless' 2009

Share Our Strength, the leading organization in America fighting to end childhood hunger, brought together volunteers from around the US and supportive Washington area food lovers (with a taste for a fine beverage as well) Monday night at Union Station to kickoff the 2009 theme for Taste of the Nation. "Hunger is Senseless" is the unifying mantra describing the mission ahead as chefs and restaurants work to contribute their time and talent to raise money and awareness to help conquer child hunger.

I was asked to participate with master mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim as he instructed myself and other media "mixers" like Nycci Nellis, Thelistareyouonit, and Sarah Meyer Walsh, The District Domestic in the making of the Caipiroska, which is a Caipirinha made with vodka (in this case Finlandia) instead of the usual Cachaca. We started with 4 lime wedges that we muddled to release the juices and oils with 1 ounce simple syrup. Now here is where you can go crazy ... add a fruit of choice blueberries, raspberries, blackberries -- either one or a combination and muddle that as well. Tony's got his own barware line so we used his muddle and canvas Lewis bag to crush the ice that we mounded on top of our crushed fruit. Add 2 ounces of Vodka, stir to mix the fruit with the ice and alcohol ... and you have a refreshing cocktail ... I think I'll have another if I can just find my muddler.

In the fotos that Michele Brier graciously took, Sarah is next to me as we became mixologists in an easy five minute lesson.

Afterwards we went inside to enjoy the foods of chefs from around the US and our local favorites ... and wine served by local sommeliers and cocktails from real mixologists. I saw RJ Cooper, Vidalia; Michael Kornick, mk the restaurant, Chicago; Mindy Segal, HotChocolate Restaurant, Chicago; Jeff Buben, Bistro Bis; Cedric Maupillier, Central Michel Richard; Nadine Brown, Charlie Palmer Steak; Eric Ziebold, CityZen; Todd Gray, Equinox; Kaz Okochi, KAZ Sushi Bistro; Cathal Armstrong, Restaurant Eve; Cliff Wharton, TenPenh; Tony Conte, The Oval Room and Scott Drewno, The Source among many others who work so hard in their own restaurants but find the time to work to fight this sad battle to overcome hunger among children in the US.

Va. Weekend Fun: Gold Cup to PassionFish

Saturday's International Gold Cup races enjoyed one of those classic fall days at Great Meadows in The Plains, Va. with the crisp temperatures in the 50s and 60s, bright sunshine and trees beginning to show off their brilliant colors. And then there's the splendid tailgating that has come to embrace horsey entertaining. With The Goodstone Inn & Estate providing the prizes and inn chef Tarver King joining the media judges Sarah Meyer Walsh (The District Domestic), Karin Tanabe (BISNOW on BUSINESS), and Margaret McCann (The Piedmont Virginian) and yours truly supplying camera work and ground support ... the crew led by Bendure Communications' Dianne Murphy headed to the rails along the race course to check out the car cuisine and cocktails.

The North Rail location of James Nix-Gomez stood out to the judges for its British hunt food theme and the thoroughness that they showed in remaining committed to fun and hospitality ... from the pasties, the sausages and especially to some judges the shepherd pie.  Fine wines flowed ... and even the hood decorations of pumpkins had artichoke leaves and other food greens to keep the food connection tight. Second place honors went to Gold Cup regular Sharon Galzarano.

For the top prize, James will enjoy a dinner for six at the Hilltoppers for a meal prepared by King.

PASSIONFISH GETS READY FOR OCTOBER 25 OPENING

Saturday evening found me in the office community of Reston where Passion Food Hospitality partners Jeff Tunks, David Wizenberg, and Gus DiMillo celebrated the reality of their first restaurant outside the borders of DC with a PassionFish pre-opening party. Tunks and restaurant chef Chris Clime kept the food coming in an endless flow of passed hors d'oeuvres.

The open modern 200-seat dining room is a striking home to what appears to be a non-pretentious concept where the bar, kitchen, informal and formal dining areas cross from one to another with few barriers. I will get a better feel when the rooms are reset for regular service. I do know it felt good Saturday night.

Art and Soul Reception

Walking from the Metro to the opening reception at Art and Soul, I started imagining all the things that could go wrong ... rain, too many people at the reception so you can't move without bumping into someone, people I want to avoid are in my face, music too loud, locust descending on The Liaison, no alcohol ... any delusional visions that can emerge from operating on three hours sleep after getting in at 2:30 a.m. from Middleburg and up and out for a morning breakfast in DC. Just so you know, on the opposite corner from the hotel on the same side of the street thousands of birds (it sounded like 1,236) were chirping away ... so loudly that all my nightmares from Hitchock's The Birds were primed to be released.

Silly me. The folks from Hisaoka PR and Heather Shaw Menis from The Liaison Capitol Hill had it all under control for the opening reception introducing press and hotel friends to Art Smith's Art and Soul and his executive chef Ryan Morgan.

It was easy to get a drink or a glass of wine or sparkling. The crowd was the perfect size ... meaning you could walk around and talk and drink and occasionally wave your arms to make a point. I saw friends I hadn't seen in a while ... Marvin Rosskopf, Joyce Lavery, Jo-Ann Neuhaus, Amanda McClements, Kelly DiNardo, Sarah Horner, Jean Cohen, Jayne Wise, Nycci and David Nellis, Kelly Morris, Mike Curtin, and tons more. I even made a few new friends.

Art Smith is a wonderful chef, humanitarian, traveler, teacher ... and with firm Southern roots. I can't think of any place outside of the South that I have run into boiled peanuts -- even if they were slightly firmer and had a splash of heat added. They were no less addictive than the ones I remembered from my childhood. He loved talking about teaching cooking to children in the Arctic Circle with their reindeer dominant diet. In the foto with Art is Metrocurean.

FARM, OCEAN, COUNTRY DINING, URBAN FOOD ... A Week's Journey

Since last Thursday when I visited Kreider Farms in Manheim, Pa., I have discovered that the normal unfolding of my days in reporter mode mirrors the timely sustainability story of today (much more fun than a financial story that might follow a bank to mattress path). After the pastoral, fertile landscape of Pennsylvania farm land, I made a swing over to Ocean City's Harbor Day at the West Ocean City Marina that was sponsored by the Ocean City Hotel Motel Restaurant Association. There I talked to watermen, chefs, seafood marketing officials and scientists about the seafood industry in Maryland. Last night it was an evening in a field in Middleburg ... dining outdoors under the stars and a full moon on the grounds of The Goodstone Inn & Estate. This morning the food bell rang at DC's Founding Farmers for an old-fashioned eggs, bacon and potatoes breakfast plate. Some details:

  Kreider Farms ... the trip will be featured in my November issue of Foodservice Monthly and the link will be placed in the right sidebar ... the farms are immaculate and the process, though industrial with the milking merry-go-round, represents an orderly, sustainably-conscious sane way to bring the milk we demand ... to the table.

Ocean City Harbor Day ... again another November story ... I spent a long time talking to a 30-years-on-the-boats waterman Sonny Gwin. Sonny uses the traps on the left for sea bass. He goes out on the water for whatever is currently in season -- even bringing in a catch of lobsters (usually around 1 1/2 pounds since the smaller are protected as well as anything over three pounds has to be returned)

Goodstone ... last night's dinner was the first opportunity by the Inn to show off the talents of their new chef Tarver King. With a garden -- that encompasses an acre and an expanding farm of sheep of cattle -- King appears to be headed to a self-sustained sourcing of food under his own control for the full farm to table cycle effect. For this dinner all the veggies came from Airynee's Goodstone garden. The meats, a trio of Tunis lamb, beef and suckling pig, on this evening came from the Fields of Athenry.

Founding Farmers ...  Chef Graham Duncan (see foto) invited media in for breakfast this morning and it gave me my first look at the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) building that has been nominated for a Gold distinction that is to be finalized in the next couple of months. Better tasting than the recycled wood used in the interior design is the Nueske's bacon that sat well next to two perfectly cooked eggs over easy. I went in the kitchen to thank the chef and get a photo -- but the chef told me he doesn't smile while he's trying to get ready for lunch (see the FreeBird chicken behind him) so I took the foto and moved on out of his way. I know how the prep amps up between 10 and 11:30 in kitchens.

 

Finally Someone Has a Non-Voting Promotion

I'm over the original idea of voting via food and drink buys ... couldn't we think of something original. But if you're twisted like my dark soul, you can enjoy some "eye sream" for the Halloween season at 2941. The latest darling of the Post's Tom Sietsema (check out the Fall Dining guide) is the Falls Church kitchen of Bertrand Chemel. But then those of us who have eaten there don't need the guide as we have already fallen for the out-of-this-world food from this low key nice guy. I'll take the nice guys like Todd Gray, Scott Drewno and Bertrand any day over the reality show wannabees.

I haven't met Bertrand's pastry chef Anthony Chavez, but can you believe this dessert ... do they serve it with a scalpel. He should talk to David Guas and compare cadaver notes as David has done a few ghoulish desserts (but sinsational) for the press in the past.

Eye Scream: Valrhona white chocolate, pistachio mousse and raspberry-lychee coulis create the frighteningly delicious dish, priced at $15 and presented on a bed of dry ice to resemble a pair of smoking eyeballs. Served through the month of October.

 

How Could I Forget an Urban Wine Harvest Party?

There's been so much going on ... but I didn't mean to skip over the Autumn Wine Harvest Festival at the Willard InterContinental on Friday afternoon.

I guess I lost my head in the fumes of high-powered Scotch in the evening and neglected the festive outdoor celebration in the "Willard courtyard venue." If you haven't been down there lately, you can see another example of GM Herve Houdre's classy elevation of the entire Willard footprint -- inside and out and extending through their whole block and Pershing Park across the street. Even the Occidental has taken on the Willard shine with new matching awnings that seem to be blurring the distinctions between the two. With the W on the way, this corner of DC has taken on a broader elegance.
 
It doesn't mean that fun has to step back ... the festival atmosphere with the Friday happy hour that went on till 9 or so included plenty of French wines selected by hotel sommelier Caterina Abbruzzetti, cheese, crepes and assorted samplings from Cafe du Parc and its chef Christophe Marc. The French/Northern African music added the beat. Throw some table grapes into a half barrel for some grape stomping silliness ... and you have the justification for one more glass of wine and some hotel towels for the cleanup.