Dante Revisited

 When I came to Virginia almost 15 years ago, I began a second career. I had left Ohio and my food and beverage career, most of it in hotels behind. It was time for a change in my life and I had decided that while the rigors of the day to day operations of running a restaurant or a hotel food and beverage department were over, I could finally use my English degree -- to write about what I know ... restaurants and how they run. My first writing experience came writing food features for the Times Community Newspapers -- covering Fairfax and Loudoun counties. Soon I was writing reviews. I reviewed Dante Ristorante in Great Falls twice with the last one printed in June 1999. It is still on their Web site.

Last week a DC publicist invited media to visit the "community" restaurant -- most I'm sure had never been to the quaint home of owners Elio Domestici and chef Giuseppe DiBenigno (open since 1989). So I make this full disclosure ... unlike my first "review" meals, this meal was gratis for my wife and I as a media type. Secondly, this is not a review. Initially I had no plans for any immediate story, figuring instead I would gather information and insight for a future story on neighborhood dining. But, I was so struck by the genuine nature of the hospitality and food that I knew I had to write a few words before the night was over.

My wife raved about the mussels with the hot peppers and tomato sauce. I could not have been more pleased with the carpaccio on arugula and served with shaved Parmesan and olive oil. My wife had a Dover sole that had her expressing another round of praise for its preparation, the deboning by the server and the taste. I had the Osso Buco with veal shank served with soft polenta ... as rich and tender as you would ever expect. Now I did not remember what I ate nine years ago ... I couldn't even remember what I had written, but I did know that the overall impression was favorable. When I got home I was curious about my 1999 review. I couldn't find my original so I read the one Dante kept. I had to laugh. I had eaten exactly the same meal. And my impressions of everything I had were the same tonight as they were then ... down to the perfectly made espresso. I had just been interviewed the day before for another writer's story ... and I waxed on about how restaurants have to change to be successful and how they have to be aware of the world around them to be relevant. I did so in a tone of absolutes and authority. I was wrong for not leaving myself significant wiggle room.

Dante is one of those restaurants that you would want in your neighborhood. It's not important that it is not in any writer's top 10, 50 or 100. What is important is that Dante does a fine job night after night ... meal after meal. Thanks Elio and Giuseppe for not changing.

I hope to be back sooner rather than later although I now live in Maryland. It is good to know that when I do return, the carpaccio and osso buco will be just as good as I remember.