FOODSERVICE MONTHLY'S Sauce on the Side

"The girls are getting together again." Ris Lacoste

Tuesday night was a time to “Celebrate Women Chefs” … and in doing so needed awareness and monies were raised for the Ovarian Cancer National Alliance at the Ritz-Carlton, West End. To start to talk about the women who were instrumental in the success of the event is to inadvertently leave out so many more who were just as important to its splendid success. So you might see this posting grow during the day as I recall someone else I saw during the feel good festivities. The purpose of the event was a serious one ... and all was accomplished with their business as usual dedication, hard work and talent – the spirit in the room was overflowing with good cheer.

I don’t know her personally, but a special guest for the attendees was Judith Jones, the star of cookbook editors, and now vice president and senior editor at Alfred A. Knopf. She is a winner of the James Beard Lifetime Achievement Award and editor of culinary luminaries including Julia Child and James Beard.

One of the first people I saw was Laurie Bell who alerted me months ago with a “save the date” that made sure I didn’t let anything else get in the way on this special night – she was buzzing about the room, but stopped for a moment to greet her friend Bonnie Moore. Event coordinator Betsy Crone puts in many hours getting the event up and running.

Then I saw Carole Palmer with her Good Taste Marketing table (featuring Vermont Butter & Cheese and Rogue cheeses) who an hour before was in Virginia (like myself) working a trade food show. Let me quickly charge through a few of the names of people of I saw including the woman who coordinated the chef effort Ris Lacoste (and whose quote I used at the top): Meshelle Armstrong with the women of Restaurant Eve and Majestic including chef Shannon Overmiller; Tracy O’Grady and Kate Jansen of Willow Restaurant; Nora Pouillon was in Austria but Ben Lambert ably filled in for Restaurant Nora; Jamie Leeds of Hank’s Oyster Bar; Janis McLean of Morrison-Clark Restaurant; Ruth Gresser of Pizzeria Paradiso; Vaishali Chitnis, Stratford Academy; Gillian Clark of Colorado Kitchen; Gladys Abi-Najm and Susan Gordon with Lebanese Taverna; Beverly Bates of Bistro Bis; Patrice Dionot of L’Academie de Cuisine; Jodi Lehr, Santa Lucia Coffee; Heather Chittum of Hook; Lauren Whitledge of DC Coast; Dara Bunjon of Dara Does It and a Foodservice Monthly writer and many, many more.

And for sure, you cannot have a party without the boundless enthusiasm and attention to detail of the Ritz-Carlton’s Annie Boutin-King who was wearing a stunning pair of shoes that I failed to get a picture of for this posting.

I have a gallery of fotos of the women noted above in my FOTO GALLERY. Take a look and feel free to download any that interest you.

Fire Under Control at Plymouth Gin

My son understands Plymouth Gin is my gin of preference and when he heard in his car coming back from a meeting in Doncaster that a building at the distillery was burning, he pulled over (no phones on the ear in the UK while driving) and called to spread the news. BBC News had the report and luckily no one was hurt as the fire damaged a restaurant of James and Chris Tanner -- known for their culinary talents in the UK.

Residents were moved from their homes in nearby Hoegate Street. No-one was trapped or injured in the fire. Devon and Somerset Fire and Rescue Service said eight fire engines, including an aerial platform were deployed. Crews found fire in a first floor kitchen, extractor trunking and possibly in the roof of the three-storey building which houses the Plymouth Gin distillery and the Barbican Kitchen Brasserie, run by the Tanner brothers.

Fire commander Pete Smith told BBC News the fire was under control, but crews would remain damping down and watching for hotspots to ensure the fire did not take told again. He said the fire had caused extensive damage, but most of the distillery building had escaped. The cause of the fire is not known.

Black Friars distillery has been the working home of the world famous Plymouth Gin since 1793. The building dates back to the early 15th Century and was formally a monastery of Black Friars.

"Just coffee, please."

The opening line of the murder mystery seemed to be an appropriate thought on this night along an out of kilter M Street in Washington around seven. The streets were bloody empty. I walked past the sign on the door. Inside hooded people listened to the sly leader. I stared, stopped and walked on ... and stopped again. Out came the camera, off came the flash -- the ISO was raised for the night light. Back to the door and I knew it was true. I had wandered upon a closed Starbucks on this night of reprogramming the staff ... and with a quick turn down the street I clicked a moving one-handed foto of the deed ... and kept on moving for a few brisk steps before stopping to view the damage in my camera's back screen. Blurry, not really prize material. Do I go back and shoot again? I take a backwards glance, then a stare and two Starbucks eyes are looking right at me. We connect and she raises her good arm and gestures for me to return. That was it ... this wasn't Starbucks kosher ... I was going to get a corporate scolding. Is it OK to take a picture through the window of a closed coffee shop. Who the hell knows. I turned and headed away from the scene ... listening all the while for a "hey, hold up there." Silence. I reached the corner knowing I had captured a special moment.

Tomorrow I will be ready to experience that Starbucks moment again: "Just coffee, please."

If you can tell me the name of the book that I have taken this opening line from -- I will give an autographed copy of the book to the first person who e-mails me ... everyone is eligible except for the author -- she might even read this blog from time to time. Oops, that's a clue.

FOOD WINE DRINK 19

coffee, coffee, coffee

Corduroy Update

Not so much an update than a foto that tells me a little more information: when I was walking inside the Convention Center to Coffee Fest, I saw the Forrester Construction sign outside a building facade on Ninth St. (1122 to be exact). After seeing the show, I made a point to take a walk to the location knowing that Forrester does restaurants as a specialty of their high end construction company. I first met Scott Forrester when the Inn at Little Washington did their expansion and followed them for on-the-site stories years ago when they built out TenPenh and Olives. For me the Forrester sign can be a pre-indicator of good food -- you will find on their Web site names like Zaytinya, Oyamel, Rosa Mexicano, Acadiana, Ceiba and many more.

When I got closer, I saw the
CORE architectural logo as well ... another good indicator with restaurants like Brasserie Beck, COMET pizza + ping pong, Black Salt, Lia's and once again many more. I also found on their Web site a rendering of an "unbuilt" Michel Richard Concept for 8,000 sq. ft. ... hmmm!

This is the site for Tom Power's Corduroy ... see Amanda McClement's Metrocurean for the real news ... I only have an updated foto ... with the hints of good things ahead.

Coffee Fest 2008

It appears that the 2008 version of Coffee Fest was a success ... I run into Larry with his ATM machines at sundry trade shows around the region and he gave it a 5-star rating for crowds on Saturday ... and I heard the same thing from Carrie at InstantWhip who said it was so busy Saturday that I wouldn't have been able to stop and chat like I was doing on Sunday. I figure if the auxiliary companies were happy -- then it had to be good for the coffee-centric concerns.

I met M.E. Swing Co. owner Mark Warmuth and the roaster Carl Dodge -- I had recently seen their name pop up with love in Melissa McCart's Counter Intelligence. They were still feeling the glow from that and a few other recent mentions that have made them a rising coffee with a bullet in the top tens of local brands in Whole Foods (you have to look in yours because the locals aren't in every WFM). They let on there may be an upcoming coffee story in Express -- at least they have it on their daily radar.

The most surprising cup came from a push button machine at Kiari's ... the machine did the grinding and the brewing behind a convenience store counter facade ... turning out a fine shot with a smooth crema and without any bitter faults. And that was overcoming my predisposition not to like it. I saw the people from Caffe Pronto ... I had written about them recently and Robert DiPasquale. I need to go visit him. Finding four potential stories (plus one on the street outside the Convention Center) made it a good use of Sunday daylight hours.

The pictures of people mentioned are in my FOTO GALLERY.

STOP: In the Name Of Love

Karen Hayes has to work Thursday night ... stop over at the Roof Terrace Restaurant and show her some love.

Life doesn't always happen the way you plan it. The Roof Terrace Restaurant at the Kennedy Center doesn't usually open when there isn't anything drawing guests into the entertainment/arts complex. But then a glitch in the reservation system and a blurb in the newspaper ... well, you want to make the right move for LOVE and DINNER and decide to honor reservations and open! No one wants to disappoint on Valentine's Day.

What it does mean it that you might be able to get a last minute reservation at a fine restaurant -- when others are full. It may save the day for you. I know it's been on my radar to get over to taste the cooking of Karen Hayes. Foodservice Monthly writer Alexandra Greeley has a Life Work feature on Hayes in an upcoming issue and it sounds like the restaurant is on the upswing.

Besides the view, Ms. Hayes' Valentine’s Day dinner will feature a three-course menu priced at $75 per person. Reservations are required and can be made from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. To make reservations, lovers may call 202-416-8555.

The Valentine’s Day menu will include the following:

First Course (choose one)
Smoked Fish Trio – salmon, trout, peppered mackerel, horseradish cream
Winter Greens & Citrus Salad – mache, radicchio, endive, citrus-ginger vinaigrette
Roasted Stuffed Squid – basil, parsley, mint, cashews, blood orange emulsion

Second Course (choose one)
Lemongrass Marinated Shrimp – cashew-studded jasmine rice, coconut red curry sauce
Braised Boneless Short Ribs – sweet potato puree, Brussels sprouts, cabernet sauce
Forbidden Black Rice Vol-au-Vent – currants, leeks, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprout petals

Dessert (choose one)
Valentine’s Chocolate for Two
Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee
Meyer Lemon Tiramisu

A Karen Cathey Update: Some Good News In Her Own Words

Karen sent out her first e-mail since just leaving ICU ... here in her own voice are the highlights ... it's great to have some good news and know that thoughts and prayers can make a difference:

Greetings to all my wonderful friends and colleagues. I wanted to send this e-mail to you in my own voice because I miss you all and have been so touched by your numerous cards and messages. I have been working very hard to get well and thankfully was rewarded over the weekend by a move out of the ICU.

Many have asked if they can visit and I would be delighted to see anyone who wishes to come. I am now in room #704 at Virginia Hospital Center in Arlington. It's difficult for me to answer the phone, so I have requested no calls be put through.

During the day I am very busy with various medical and physical therapy treatments, so I ask that any visitors only come between the hours of 6:30 p.m. - 9 p.m.

Also, I hope everyone will realize that, even though I love to talk as much as ever, I get tired very easily and so I will try to stay as quiet and low-key as possible and ask that visitors please do the same. I am really looking forward to getting back into the swing of things, and I want everyone to know I believe your care and support is what is getting me there.

Love,

Karen

Karen Cathey
Virginia Hospital Center
RM 704
1635 N. George Mason Dr.
Arlington, VA 22205-3698

FOOD WINE DRINK 18

Tom Waits is a favorite ... he's been a source of musical enjoyment for myself for 30 years or so ... with one of my favorite songs being his "Piano's Been Drinking ... " with that great line about trying to find your server with a geiger counter. Sauce on the Side friend Kelly DiNardo, the keeper of The Candy Pitch and author of the revealing biography of burlesque's Gilded Lili: Lili St. Cyr and the Striptease Mystique, covers the modern revival of the sexier stage dance. On the other end of the spectrum, she may appreciate Mr. Waits as a master of revealing the seamier, less glamorous voice of the working stiff looking for a drink, a smoke and a woman who looked even better with each passing shot. I saw his tour for Small Change in the late 70s at the Agora in Cleveland. After intermission he opened the show with a stripper who did her best bumps and grinds while Waits finished his drink staring at her finest pasties. It's all here -- including Carlos ... you'll have to tell me what you think about poor Carlos and that "spent piece of used jet trash." Politically correct, no ... and I'm not even going to try to spin any defense ...

Michel Richard Shows Off His 'Bi-Coastal' Self

UrbanDaddy LA reports that Michel Richard's latest LA incarnation Citrus at the Social opens today.

Our friend Natalie who pens The Liquid Muse is all over the opening ... check out her on the scene reporting.

Here's UrbanDaddy's first take:

"Remakes are never a good idea—except when they work.

Today is the day you can officially decide if Citrus, the new incarnation of famed French chef Michel Richard's long-ago Melrose Avenue legend, is the exception rather than the rule.

Right away, you'll find the lack of pretense helps its chances. The lime-green carpet, lime-green velvet-coated pillars, and backlit lemon-yellow curtains embody a cheekily obvious play on the name. And even the most novice member of your refined foodie cadre isn't likely to be intimidated by a menu that promises Chicken Faux Gras to start, 72-Hour Short Rib Frites to continue, and a Kit Kat Bar with Sauce Noisette to finish. (If you've forgotten you're in the hands of a master, just check your plate—his signature is scrawled across it.)

The setting for all this is the once-nameless dining space within the Social Hollywood monolith, which didn't take long to become more about the elite nightlife scene upstairs (and next door, and in the back) than the food in this corner. But though the access to those booze-fueled corridors remains, Citrus now has its own identity...and its own Sunset Boulevard entrance. And, not to worry, its own bar."

Citrus at Social, 6525 Sunset Blvd (at Schrader), Hollywood, 323-337-9797