Fabio in New York and in the News

For some sharp reporting on the rumored hotel deal which eventually will bring Fabio Trabocchi back to Washington, you have to catch last night's Metrocurean post from Amanda McClements. Great job Amanda.

But speaking of Fabio, I was in NYC last weekend for the International Hotel Motel & Restaurant Show. The show opened on Sunday, but I got there early to judge new products introduced at the show. Saturday night I met my friend from forever Judith Kalfon and her niece Jenny (a freshman at Sarah Lawrence) at Fiamma for dinner. The dining room is long and narrow and on several levels. And no longer can you see Fabio do his thing ... the wall blocks the kitchen view. Judith who had worked with owner Stephen Hanson on a hotel project/restaurant in Chicago pointed out a subtlety that I missed ... the lighting was impeccable. Soft, comfortable ... bright enough for reading ... right on. She said Hanson always gets the lighting right.

Then there was the food and wine ... Jarad Slipp was running the floor ... Fernando (a Maestro alum) was waiting on our table. A new face is sommelier Ania Zawieja -- she is a great complement to the Fiamma experience. Her attention is enthusiastic and the selections add the proper wine tone for the meal. She knows the menu; she knows her wines. Let Ania make the wine pairings. The Chateau des Rontets "Clos Varambom" Pouilly Fuisse 2005 and the Scheleret Pinot Gris 2004 from Alsace were particularly memorable -- both available by the glass.

From the Scottish Langostines with the chilled fennel anise soup, to the Latini spaghetti with sea urchin, to the roasted Dover sole, it was all a sensory overload (but a happy one). I can't forget the shaved white truffles (Fabio does that himself at the table) especially after Roberto Donna told me they are commanding over $4,000/ pound this year (but not so good in his estimation). Ours tasted mighty fine.

Tom Wellings has taken his pastry magic to Soho ... and he is still playing. The espresso dust adds a dimension to panna cotta never tasted here before. But later, it was the simple pear gel -- with its sweet essence of flavor that blew me away.

At the end, I made it back to the kitchen to thank Fabio ... and I said to him that the food was different than at Maestro although I couldn't exactly say how. He looked at me and smiled, "This is New York."

Comments

[Metrocurean]

Thanks, Michael! I'm hoping that hotel connection turns out - no telling after a few years in NYC.