FOODSERVICE MONTHLY'S Sauce on the Side

Rhode Island Riesling Named Best of Show at ASWC

fotos: The judges and support team for ASWC in the top picture and below Ambassador Mariano Fernandez checks the aroma of a wine at his judge's table.

While Sauce on the Side  friends Counter Intelligence and Metrocurean were chasing Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, I was spending the weekend with 19 other judges tasting over 450 wines for the 4th Annual Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition at the Regency at Dominion Valley in Haymarket, Va. I know the high octane celebration had plenty to offer, but we were learning in our back yard that wines of the East Coast are getting better each year and in some ways have taken some quantum leaps as winemakers and wineries zero in on what grows best in our region. Joining me on the panel of judges were wine experts that included Mariano Fernandez, Ambassador of Chile to the United States; Dave McIntyre, Washingtonian wine writer and chef Jerry Pellegrino, Corks in Baltimore. Other judges represented a cross section of the wine industry’s market including winemakers, sommeliers, wine appreciation educators and wine regulatory officials who evaluated a full array of wine varietals produced from Vinifera, as well as Native American and French Hybrid grapes.

Two days of judging, culminating with a taste off of the 19 gold medal winning best of categories wines, led to the naming of the Newport Vineyards 2007 Riesling as the Best of Show for the competition.

The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition is a wine judging that focuses on the wines being produced on the Atlantic Seaboard that encompasses 17 states. The mission is to promote a national consumer awareness that there is a quality wine producing region along the East Coast of the United States. Also, the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition conducts a variety of public wine tasting events that ensure that all wine entries in the ASWC will be featured and made available to an array of interested, public wine consumers. Such events include a scheduled “Taste of the Best of the Atlantic Seaboard” at COPIA, the American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts in Napa Valley, California. There is also an annual ASWC winners’ awards presentation and wine tasting on Capitol Hill under the auspices of the U.S. Congressional Wine Caucus tentatively scheduled for mid-September.

Some of the Best of Category gold medal winners that made it to the taste off for Best of Show were:

Kluge 2004 Sparkling Rose (VA)
Barboursville 2007 Pinot Grigrio (VA)
Jefferson 2007 Chardonnay Reserve (VA)
Elk Run Vineyards Gewurztraminer (MD)
Pearmund Cellars 2007 Viognier (VA)
Osprey's Dominion 2005 Merlot (NY)
Presque Isle 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (PA)
Keswick Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Franc (VA)
Keswick Vineyards 2007 Touriga (VA)
Frogtown Cellars 2005 Touche (GA)
Fox Meadow Winery 2006 Le Renard Rouge (VA)

I will post here a complete list of gold, silver and bronze medal winners as soon as the awards committee releases the official results.

The competition is produced by the Vinifera Wine Growers Association (I sit on the board) and the organization also produces the Virginia Wine Festival, now in its 33rd year. The dates for 2008 are September 27 and 28 ... more on that as we finalize details as I handle the food and wine seminars.

Good News! ... and tasty, too

foto: Local reporter Brittney Ferguson, Alexandria Gazette Packet, adds ice before blending a Banana Chocolate Vivanno

On a day when at dawn, I read about fear of inflation, the worst performance ever of the dollar against the Euro, and ongoing dismal news on oil prices and the abyss that is our country's official environmental policy ... and yes, rising food costs ... I managed to find good news.

Starbucks has a new drink ... that tastes good and is healthy for you: the Vivanno Nourishing Blends. They rolled out today two flavors: Orange Mango Banana and Banana Chocolate. As part of the press gathering at the S. Union St location in Alexandria, we got to go behind the line and put on the green apron (washed my hands properly first) and make one of the drinks. With a orange mango puree from Naked Juice (to the first line), some 2% milk (to the second line), 3 scoops of a whey protein and fiber powder, a whole banana and a pre-measured scoop of ice ... I was ready to whirl. And I did not make the rookie mistake of leaving the sound lid up for a potential explosion of product (the lid also holds the top in place). What was thrilling is that the one I made was sold to a customer. SO does that make me a healthy barista.

The beverage is lighter than those smoothies that weigh a ton and are so heavy in mass ... these come in the grande size only (16 oz.) and the measurements all work toward blending with the single banana. The drink is only 250 calories, with the powder it's got 16g. protein, 2 g. fat and no artificial sweeteners. It's a perfect mid-morning and afternoon snack/beverage. With the banana the potassium is is 400 mg. and the dietary fiber is 5 g. The favorite of the group was the chocolate flavor version ... it has 270 calories and the protein gets bumped to 21 g. All that said it can be a non-guilty pleasure.

I wanted to see what's going on with this iced-coffee push. Using a coffee that's been blended to stand up to ice and cold -- the double-strength coffee dilutes with the melting ice to make a drink that is refreshing and still has coffee characteristics. A creature of habit, I haven't experimented much with Starbucks bean blend, but you might look for the Gazebo blend that was released today (it's only a summer edition) and from a first taste it shows bold, aromatic qualities and a lively coffee taste.

To make at home ... you need a bold blend that will not lose its flavor over ice. The Gazebo is a good start. Brew it double strength (1 cup coffee to 3 cups water) and then add 3 cups ice to the pot to start the cooling. Fill a glass halfway with ice and pour the coffee over it. I liked mine. It tasted like cold coffee, not some diluted trickery.

Yes, today turned out to be a good news day. I can go on my walk now -- four more miles, I say.

Thai-Ki Means Thai-Fi[ne]

A field trip to Easton yesterday to see a chef friend had a simple mission (and one without a story assignment) ... lunch! With two traveling buddies, we made the trek across the Bay Bridge (and beware -- we saw like six or more Troopers on cycles and in cars pulling people over for speed on both sides and in both directions).

Andrew Evans, since the unfortunate closing of the restaurant at the Inn at Easton, has created a delicious stop on Dover Street East ... Thai-Ki. I can remember Andrew's fascination with Asian cuisine from our trip to Iceland two years ago for Food and Fun ... when he had to shop for the competition, he headed right to the Asian aisle. I still remember him telling his culinary apprentice, "We can't just take anything, I'm very picky about my ingredients."

He has created a aesthetically soothing 1,000 square-foot Thai hut for simply Thai inspired food. From chicken satay to the pork and vegetable spring rolls to sweet corn fritters, you have starters that can keep you from moving on to the soups, salads and entrees. Just keep sending those out until my eyeballs pop. 

This isn't a review ... so please let me stop searching for those clever food phrases. I'm just saying you would want one in your neighborhood. And here's one more gem -- how many Thai restaurants have you ever been in that didn't have one Thai or Asian person on the line, at the door, in the dining room. Andrew thinks that he may be the only Thai restaurant on the Eastern Shore ... I don't know about that but I would believe that 90 percent of his customers are new to Thai.

Instead of dumbing down the cuisine, he has admittedly lightened it -- coconut milk instead of coconut cream is one way. And for those that are Thai experts (or think they are) I leave it to you to start any cuisine debates. For people who enjoy food without the search for the round hole for the round peg, I think you will immediately notice the lighter quality highlights the freshness and purity of the ingredients that allow for many flavor moments of joy.

There are eight or so tables inside and a few more on the sidewalk ... but the best seats are the kitchen-view stools that allow you watch your food prepared to order. Don't expect conversation when Andrew or one of his well-trained crew are on the wok ... it's a matter of precision and concentration to keep track of ingredients so they flow to the heat and reach their tasty finish. 

Sitting there, the three of us were figuring ways to justify trips back to this "new" find. It's 60 miles from my house in Maryland and I live off of RT. 50. That's not too bad ... I don't have a SUV and I don't mind traveling for good food. I guess I should look around and see what else there is to do in Easton. Maybe look up a yacht broker.   

SYOB Uncovered at the RAMMYS

A small item in the Washington Post on Tuesday about the RAMMYS made me think that there must be restaurants in town that have relaxed their corkage policies. Or is this a SYOB (Sneak Your Own Bottle) trend instead of the more traditional BYOB. If it’s OK to sneak wine into another’s place of business, does the same standard apply in their own restaurants. Apparently the wines donated by Chile for the event did not meet the SNOB appeal for some.

The Post blurb is about the fact that wines were brought in from some restaurants at their tables because the expectation would be the wines at the event would need an “appropriate” upgrade. It made me think about how the foods and wines make it to the table at the RAMMYS. They are donated. 100 percent of the fine Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon Blend and Carmenere Blend were brought to the event by Chile – and from my perspective were more than “lovely” … they were great pairings for the best meal I’ve seen at an event for 1600 people. I was also glad to see at the opening reception a representative sampling of Virginia wines for a local statement. 

This is the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington’s major fundraiser for the year … meaning they can continue to diligently monitor the activities of the DC City Council, regulatory agencies, the numerous legislative bodies in Northern Virginia and in the state legislature as well as promoting the members tirelessly. The monies also go toward the Education Foundation for support of culinary programs in high schools and for providing scholarships to deserving students so they continue their education. It is with the volunteer support of many individuals, the product donations of companies, restaurants, countries and distributors that the success of the RAMMYS is guaranteed.

So, wine for 1600 for three courses … I think that’s a major statement of support from Chile. And Iceland provided the center of the plate for four courses (all donated). Thank you from this corner – no upgrade is necessary.

To me, it’s not a big deal until you’re outed and relish the press mention, so maybe the SYOB crowd will consider sharing their wine wealth with the rest of us next year. Figuring a glass for every person, that would be 30 cases or so … I’m sure RAMW would accept the donation – and we could all be self-declared serious oenophiles. Sounds like a toast is in order.

And now the rest of the story …

foto: Thanks to all who worried about who would be taking a picture of me when I went on stage – including my wife Acqua who took a nice picture I will be using in the next FSM. For the Web, I love this picture – it’s got that television screen capture quality to it that some will recognize from my photo source’s own blog. Pictures of me are best when the edges are muted. That’s Jodi Lehr and Gus DiMillo on stage with me.

When Foodservice Monthly won a RAMMY on Sunday for the Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year, I was stunned. I was working the area in front of the stage taking pictures of all the winners as they were steadily celebrated on stage. Finally, I realized my name had been called and I had nothing prepared.

Well, I made it to the stage and I did OK because my words came from the heart and I was able to express the emotion and pride of the moment. To be a part of what I saw as a celebration of the brilliant, beautiful Joan Hisaoka made that time especially real to me. To have her husband Marvin on stage with my friends Jodi Lehr and Gus DiMillo was powerfully motivating and a memory I will never forget. I do also remember thanking the great people of the restaurant industry I once worked directly in and now that I write about on a daily basis. And, yes I did remember my wife Acqua in the audience and I did send her a “happy anniversary” message.

But, I wish I had made a few notes in advance and then taken the next precious moments before the “hook” to thank even more people. Foodservice Monthly is also Sterling Schiffman of Silver Communications, my partner co-founder who if he hadn’t carried us at the beginning – well, I wouldn’t have been at the podium. Mike Conrad has developed the design and format of the magazine and has done the production the last four years while attending the Berklee College of Music in Boston (he graduated in May). Albina David has made a difference in sales and takes a lot of that responsibility from my shoulders. I do have to thank Bill Tye of Eden & Tye (a food brokerage firm – for my non-industry friends) who told me at the beginning to take lots of pictures. “People like to see their pictures in magazines.” Now I am known for my camera as much as for the words.

Foodservice Monthly would not exist without the relationships cultivated with commitment and love with the Maryland and Washington restaurant associations. In Maryland, the late Marcia Harris was a mentor and advisor who taught me to never settle for anything less than the best. “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.” Paula Kreuzburg was always my link to Marcia and she helped to keep me in the know. In Washington, Lynne Breaux and I formed an immediate bond as we both came on the scene in our new positions at the same time. I’ve had a front row seat capturing in pictures and print the resurgence of RAMW and the Washington food scene. All you have to do is experience and reflect on the splendid and spectacular event the RAMMYS has turned into since 2002. Thank you!

And now to the writer and columnists – they have made Foodservice Monthly relevant to my readers: Linda Roth, Randi Rom, Celeste and Pete McCall, Karen Cathey and Jay Treadwell have been with me since the beginning. Most regional trade publications used canned columns and wire releases – our columns are real. Robert Wiedmaier, chef/owner of Marcel’s and Brasserie Beck told me at the Chefs on Bikes event last week that he sees us as the “BBC of magazines” – fair and newsworthy. His comment has grown on me – that’s a kind of cool way to see FSM.

We have a great relationship with the National Restaurant Association and Annika Stensson makes the back page a winner every month. Then there’s the talented regular and occasional writers that have added to our strong portfolio --- Dara Bunjon, Laura Koster, Amanda McClements, April Fulton, Alexandra Greeley, Dave McIntyre, Bob McKay, Henry Pertman, Carole Palmer and Laurie White to name those that come to mind immediately. Another big thank you.

My board of advisors is a cross-section of industry people that I have turned to make sure I’m on the right path … and Joan Hisaoka was an important sounding board as part of that group. Thank you to Veronica Battisti, Gladys Abi-Najm DeShayes, Jeff Gordon, Ellen Gray, Donna McCready, Mary Ellen Mason, Rob Mumma, Fabio Trabocchi and Jayne Wise.

I have to stop naming names because I know I am starting to leave out people which is always the problems with lists or quasi lists: All my dear PR friends, chefs, restaurateurs, vendors, advertisers (without you I don’t exist), support staff at Silver Communications, association staff in Washington and Columbia Md. as well as Susan Jones in Ocean City, Embassy friends from Chile and Iceland, many supportive friends in and out of the business, family – who did I leave out.

Do I feel the hook yet … yes, it’s time to go as I’ve just broken all the blog rules for brevity and punch. Feel free to edit and correct, I plan to use a tighter version of this in my next print edition.

Equinox, Eric Ziebold and Phyllis Richman Honored With the Elite of the Washington Dining Scene

foto: Todd Gray, Eric Ziebold, Phyllis Richman, Cathal Armstrong

The Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington honored Sunday night the elite of the Washington dining scene at the 2008 RAMMYS at the Marriott Wardman Park. In an evening featuring international flavor with a hint of bling, Todd and Ellen Gray’s Equinox received the Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year award, Eric Ziebold of CityZen is the 2008 Chef of the Year and longtime Washington Post food critic (now retired) Phyllis Richman received the Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award.

In a tribute to the late Joan Hisaoka, RAMW recognized Foodservice Monthly as the first winner of the newly named Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year Award

Other winners honored included:

New Restaurant of the Year: The Source by Wolfgang Puck

Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Poste Moderne Brasserie

Pastry Chef of the Year: Heather Chittum, Hook

Wine & Beverage Program of the Year: Passion Food Hospitality

Rising Culinary Star of the Year: Barton Seaver, Hook

Restaurant Manager of the Year:  Molly McWhorter, Chef Geoff’s Downtown

Neighborhood Gathering Place of the Year: Hank’s Oyster Bar - DC

Hottest Restaurant Bar Scene of the Year: Central Michel Richard

Power Spot of the Year: The Oceanaire Seafood Room

Partial proceeds from this year’s RAMMY Awards will benefit the RAMW’s Education Foundation’s scholarship program. The program helps send area high school graduates to culinary and hospitality schools around the nation.

Exercise: What A Concept!

[click on the screen capture for a clearer view]

On April 15, I decided to get off my butt and move away from my computer long enough for a walk. That's a rather boring statement, but I was barreling straight toward my 60th birthday without ever having a regular exercise program as part of my life. So for me, it was an important day as I walked a tad over a mile in 18 minutes. I had received a pair of Nike Plus shoes, an iPod and the wireless receiver attachment Christmas 2006. It took me 16 months to get moving, not a particularly good testimony to my exercise commitment. I don't want to make this an ad for Nike, but if you need goals and challenges to motivate you into action, this is a great way to go. The iPod plays my music as well as keeping up with my miles, time, pace, and calories burned. I come in and place it in the dock and the info gets uploaded to Nike and they take care of the rest. Take a look at my main Nike page ... every walk is tracked and archived (you see here my walk today). I have several other pages dedicated to my personal goals, accomplishments, challenges, etc. The people at Nike are no fools (and they can send me an endorsement check if they like). I am rewarded with positive reinforcement with recorded messages from my iPod from Lance Armstrong when I achieve personal best times and distances and that is actually enough.

I can talk about it today because it's become an integral part of my life since that April date ... 60 runs for 259 miles. From my cautious beginning, I always walk at least 4 miles and on Saturdays I make it a two-hour walk. It's had three immediate benefits: 1. a lower blood pressure and I'm going to my doctor so I can be declared medicine free ... 2. lower cholesterol with a complementary adjustment to my diet by including whole grains with a daily breakfast of Cheerios or steel-cut oatmeal from Bob's Red Mill (for my friends who need gluten-free products, this is OK except for the most intolerant situations) ... 3. I sleep better and wake up more rested and alert.

It has also been a key component in my desire to lose weight ... so in 10 weeks I've lost 20 pounds with 8-10 more to go. A Web site that has been important to me is About.com ... with their walk section. They have great resources for the proper ways to exercise and walk ... I use it every day including learning more about the health benefits. Another important resource has been Sally Squire's Lean Plate Club through the Washington Post. There I found the President's Challenge and I track my walks each day through that site.  Once again it helps with setting and meeting goals. It keeps me motivated as I walk five to six times a week. It is good to take at least one day off a week, but never more than two. In the spring, I walked at lunchtime, now in the summer it is better to walk early in the morning. It's a good time to clear my mind and I even wrote in my head my proposal for a book I've been thinking about for some time. I was going no where fast with it ... now it has direction and I will get to work on it Monday.

Mine is a small first step ... have you taken yours.

 

Chefs On Bikes Celebrates 5th Ride for Share Our Strength

Washington delivered one of its spectacular weather days and eighty plus chefs and supporters left Bistro Bis this morning after a hearty breakfast hosted by Jeff Buben to hit the road to the Virginia countryside to raise money for Share Our Strength. Led by honorary chairman and co-founder Jean-Philippe Krukowicz and Vidalia chef R.J. Cooper, Chefs on Bikes presented by Fortessa made stops along the way at Fortessa's headquarters in Sterling, Va and Clyde's Willow Creek Farm. Then it was on to Clarke County, where the bikers traveled along the Shenandoah River and visited the historic Burwell-Morgan Mill in Millwood. This one-day motorcycle rally raises money to help Share Our Strength make sure that no child in America grows up hungry.

Alain and Celeste Borel, owners of L’Auberge Provençale in White Post, hosted a reception at the Villa La Campagnette, the bed-and-breakfast operation that the Borels run along with their restaurant. The post-ride party at the villa a special barbecue contest judged by myself, writer Eve Zibart and Boston chef Andy Husbands. The two winners of the best bike competition came from JJ McDonnell seafood: Steve Vilnit and Barry Angradi (see FOTO).

I met the group at Willow Creek Farm where I found Clyde's VP Tom Meyer manning the barbecue -- with racks of chickens and salmon. Chefs also enjoyed a tour of the gardens maintained by the Clyde's chefs and I saw for the first time the 20,000 bees cared for by the Clyde's team and a beekeeper. The luncheon spread was spectacular ... and the chefs expressed their pleasure with several moments of spontaneous applause for the Clyde's team.

Good People! Good News! … from the Front Line at Palette

Arnel Esposo, chef de cuisine of Palette (in the Loews Madison Hotel in DC) restaurant has just returned from Iraq – with a new perspective on what matters in his life. Reflect on what you think it might be like to spend a year in a war zone the next time you become annoyed or irritated at some little thing. Arnel is in the Maryland Army National Guard and his unit the 58th Infantry Brigade Combat Team just returned from a year of duty in Iraq. His unit was called up last April and shipped out May 2007. He also was in the first Gulf War as well as working a 45-day Katrina Mission in Louisiana and Mississippi.

How many active chefs do you know run a three-meal a day restaurant with a live reserve commitment in their past and future? Arnel Esposo is the only one I know locally and he has the culinary credentials to have been named in 2006 a Star Chefs 'rising star chef' to go with his military dog tag.

He didn’t have chef duties in his unit; the team swept villages for insurgent bombs prior to troops patrolling various areas. While in Iraq he asked to cook in the 'mess hall' a few times, but he was not permitted to do so, as that was not his commission, although the jacket of his uniform (as you can see) did have "Chef" on it.

Even in Iraq, there is a charismatic quality in being a chef. He would travel in neighborhoods with candy/chips for the children. Whenever the kids saw the troops coming they would yell for the "chef.” “Where is the chef?”

I found this amusing aside about the care packages sent to the troops by Marylanders. They have an abundance of Old Bay Seasoning included. They put it on chips, rice, cup-o-noodles – you name it … even rations.

Stay tuned as I’m scheduling some time with the chef to check on his direction for Palette … I can’t wait and I better not take too long … or he’ll be headed to another hot spot in the world. I’m just glad he made it back safely and let’s hope he can stay for a while.

18th Annual Chef's Best Dinner & Auction for Food & Friends

FOOD & FRIENDS
 was established in 1988 to provide home-delivered meals and friendship to people living with HIV/AIDS. These services foster a community caring for men, women and children living with HIV/AIDS, cancer and other life-challenging illnesses by preparing and delivering specialized meals and groceries in conjunction with nutrition counseling.

Food & Friends helps family members, friends and loved ones provide care and support for our clients and, when possible, promotes self-sufficiency. Food & Friends is the only nonprofit organization in the Washington, DC, region providing these services.

Tonight was the 18th Annual Chef’s Best Dinner and Auction and there was a lot of love in the room at the Hilton Washington and a whole lot of food for some serious fundraising. There was an energy in the room that said the people here really care about their charity of choice and the chefs were having a blast.

I got to meet Michael Hartzer for the first time who just got a favorable review from the Washington Post for his work at IndeBleu. I saw Jim Swenson, 4th Estate at the National Press Club;
Chris Clime, Acadiana;
Christophe & Michelle Poteaux, Bastille; Michael Harr, Butterfield 9;
Morou Ouattara, Farrah Olivia by Morou;
Michael Wesley, Logan Tavern; Billy McCormick, Merkado; Jeff Gaetjen, Kinkead's; Susan Gordon, Lebanese Taverna; Tim Elliot, Mie N Yu; John Wabeck, New Heights;
Samka Harra, Neyla;
Roman Cristali, Nage; Alison Swope, Restaurant K;
Benjamin Lambert, Restaurant Nora;
Massimo Fabbri, Ristorante Tosca; Nicholas Legret, The Willard Room Jeffrey Buben and R.J. Cooper III, Vidalia/ Bistro Bis. Those are just the people that I stopped by to see. There were probably double that number in total chefs on the floor.

But if there was a star in the room, it was the brilliantly bold Patrick O’Connell. Taking me back a few years when the tube referred to the television set, the Inn at Little Washington crew transformed their space into Gilligan’s Isand. Just take a look at the foto – isn’t Patrick a perfect Gilligan, but is that Ginger next to him?